Teshima

Tucked at the far end of Yotomi Kaikan, an alley of drinking spots running just north of Shijo-dori along Tominokoji-dori, sits Teshima. The counter-only establishment is run entirely by the owner-chef, who manages both cooking and service single-handedly. With limited seating, diners sit right up against the prep counter, watching each dish come together while sipping sake. For first-time visitors, the reasonably priced 6-course Akane omakase makes for a natural introduction.

The set course moves at a comfortable rhythm, opening with small starter bowls and assorted appetisers before progressing to fresh sashimi, signature vinegared mackerel sushi, fried dishes, and hot noodles. The lightly cured mackerel sushi and a concluding bowl of piping-hot udon or nyumen (thin noodles in warm broth) bring a grounding warmth to the palate after the subtly seasoned opening bites. While each portion is modest, reaching the final carb course leaves diners thoroughly and comfortably filled.

Ordering à la carte is just as rewarding. The menu lists Kyoto obanzai staples like nappa taitan (simmered greens) and fluffy dashi-rolled omelettes alongside grilled fish, including fragrant guji (tilefish) and miso-marinated Spanish mackerel. For casual grazing alongside beer or sake, options range from seasonal tempura to "elevator"—the playful local drinking-den moniker for deep-fried tofu topped with grated daikon radish.

Open from early evening until late at night, the counter accepts reservations, though the compact footprint means visiting solo or in a small party—ideally with a prior call—is the safest approach. Whether stopping by for quiet solo dining or settling in with a companion, guests find an unpretentious space in which to enjoy Kyoto's homestyle flavours without fuss.